The Ravenous Pig

Two ways to do it. The cheap way is the bar: a pub burger ($24) with blue cheese, caramelized onion, house pickle and truffle fries, plus mushroom and Gruyère beignets ($16) with truffle aioli. That is dinner for about $40 before a drink.

The full way is a table and a shared run of plates: short rib jerky ($17), stuffed jumbo shrimp with lump crab ($22), then braised wagyu beef cheeks ($42) or steak frites ($38). The black spaghetti with hen of the woods ($28) is the vegetarian main. Oysters are $19 a half dozen.

Sides are $12 to $14; the white asparagus carbonara ($14) is the one that is more than a side. The charcuterie and cheese boards run $22 for three picks up to $51 for the grand platter, which is enough for four people as a bar snack. Skip the $32 seared foie gras unless you are celebrating: the cheaper plates are where the Bib Gourmand comes from.

A short list of daily cuts sits at the bottom of the menu in limited quantity: a dry-aged ribeye at $100 to $110, an 8-ounce Ibérico pork pluma at $65, a whole roasted citrus chicken at $48. The chicken is built to share and is the better value. If you want a steakhouse steak, Christner's is a short drive away on Lee Road and does nothing else.

Happy hour in the beer garden is 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday and Friday, and the garden runs late-summer hours from noon on weekends, weather permitting. Friday and Saturday dinner is when you most need a booking.

Pair it with a Winter Park afternoon: the Park Avenue walk and the Morse Museum are a few minutes' drive east. Soseki is on the same road if you want the Michelin-star version of Fairbanks Avenue.

Anyone staying in Winter Park or downtown, and anyone with a car who wants one grown-up dinner off the parks without paying hotel prices. From Disney it is a long drive up I-4, which is the only argument against it.