Christner's Prime Steak & Lobster

• Bone-in ribeye (22 oz, $88): the best value of the Prime cuts per ounce, and big enough to share with sides.
• Dry-aged Prime strip (16 oz, $94): if you want the aged flavor, it costs $15 more than the regular strip ($79).
• Cold water lobster tail: priced at $9 an ounce, so ask the size before you order.
• Lobster mac and cheese ($22) and chateau potatoes ($16) to share.
• Mandarin orange cake ($10): layered cake with pineapple-orange whipped cream icing. Order it even if you are full and take it back to the hotel.

Skip the market-price king crab claws and grouper unless you ask the price first. "Market" at a steakhouse rarely means cheap.

This is an old-fashioned night out. The dress code is jacket preferred, there is live piano every night from 8 p.m., and on Saturday evenings a magician works the tables. Private rooms and the magic show must be requested by phone. Wine lockers are available for regulars, and if you bring your own bottle, corkage is $35 per 750 ml, two bottles per reservation, for wines not on the list.

Two 8-ounce filets, two shared sides and one cake: $64 twice, about $38 in sides and $10 for dessert, or about $176 before drinks, tax and tip. With a modest bottle of wine you are near $300. That is a little under Capa, where the 8-ounce filet is $76, and level with the Boathouse at Disney Springs, whose 11-ounce filet costs the same $74 as Christner's 12-ounce.

If you want a great dinner in the same part of town for half the money, The Ravenous Pig is a short drive east in Winter Park.

Christner's lobster is cold-water Australian tail, sold by weight at $9 an ounce. A 10-ounce tail is $90, which makes surf and turf with an 8-ounce filet a $154 plate before sides. Ask the server what sizes the kitchen has that night and say the price out loud before you order. The salmon ($49) and sesame seared tuna ($56) are the fixed-price seafood alternatives.

Lee Road runs west from Winter Park to I-4. Christner's is close to the interstate, which makes it one of the easier fine-dining trips from International Drive or downtown. The valet is free, so you only pay for the drive.